Wines with which to toast Australia Day

A public holiday in Australia since 1818, many Aussies celebrate the day with events and flying the national flag. In recent years, however, there is a growing movement of people who feel the holiday must change date or theme on account of the terrible impact of colonisation on the way of life of indigenous people – who called Australia home for tens of thousands of years before European settlers arrived 230 years ago.

Established initially as a penal colony under British rule, the early years were turbulent and it was not until 1901 that the Commonwealth of Australia was formed, uniting six self-governing colonies. January 26 has only been known as Australia Day since 1994 and is now intended to be more of a day of reflection on all things Australian, past and present. Focus is now more on reconciliation and recognition of the importance of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islanders to Australia, and this will play a large part in the 2023 celebrations.

Whatever one’s views on Australia Day, it remains a significant ‘cross on the calendar’ for anyone associated with the country and a great opportunity to open a bottle or two of Australian wine with friends. Vines were planted almost right from the beginnings of European settlement in Australia and with over 200 years of viticulture and winemaking a richly diverse wine industry has been established. This burst onto the export markets in the 1980s and since then has offered the world vibrant, fruit forward wines of exceptional value.

Exemplifying the past struggles which have now resulted in exceptional quality is the range of wines from Wynns Coonawarra Estate, the oldest winery in Australia’s most celebrated wine region, built in 1896. The estate was founded by the pioneer John Riddoch in 1891 and is now the largest in the region. However, it went through ups and downs in the last 100 years, at one time the winery becoming a sheep shed. Now, Wynns is one of the best producers in Coonawarra and the last 20 years have seen improvements putting the wines at the top of their game.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Shiraz 2020 has intense aromas of blackberry with distinctive black pepper. Delicate oak supports the medium-bodied fine palate structure, with juicy red fruit and ripe tannins. The finish is long, with hints of cedar and nutmeg. Majestic £11.99 mix six. Changing grape variety, Wynns The Siding Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 is a classic varietal, brooding yet elegant, with dark brambly fruit enhanced by careful oak maturation. Great texture on the palate and long finish. Tesco £15.

Going up the quality ladder still further, Wynns Coonawarra Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 is a fabulous example of modern, high quality Australian red wine. Blackberry, blackcurrant and black cherry, with notes of liquorice and cigar box aromas. Intense, fine fruit and firm tannins, beautifully balanced and a true expression of the variety and the region. £24.99 mix six from Majestic.

Three perfect Australian reds to toast Australia Day and all the peoples who live there.